Once or twice we
merged into a plain of a mile or so, then began the rocky ascent. We
refreshed ourselves from time to time at cooling springs that dripped
out from the rocks into a rustic stone basin. The scenery was very
attractive, but it became monotonous as we sat in our saddles while
the burros, step by step, ascended or descended the path they had
traversed so often. Toward night the mountains became more like
rolling hills and there was more open space and sky to be seen. By the
time darkness overtook us we were near the outskirts of Panama and
hoped soon to see the lights of the city. About nine o'clock we
stopped before an adobe building, long and wide, two stories high,
with a large enclosed place for the burros. This was also under the
steamship company's control. This time the proprietor was a white man
and we were able to obtain desirable beds and comfortable fare. He
gave us the best rooms, large and clean, more homelike than anything
we had seen since leaving home. We were so weary it was with
difficulty we got off the burros, having ridden all day long. I could
hardly feel the earth under me and I staggered many times before we
were comfortable in our rooms. After resting for an hour we were
summoned to supper. It was now ten o'clock. Late as it was, we found
the supper so appetizing we forgot the hour and really enjoyed the
first good meal in the ten days we were on the way. The host and his
good wife saw that everybody was made comfortable during the time we
remained there.
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